Leaf necrosis is one of those dreaded discoveries that can leave you wondering what went wrong. One moment your Anthurium Andraeanum is flourishing with its glossy, heart-shaped leaves, and the next, patches of brown or black seem to take over, leaving dead, shriveled spots. I’ve been there—staring at the damage, trying to figure out where I went wrong. Let’s get into what causes leaf necrosis and, most importantly, how you can prevent and manage it.
Necrosis is essentially when part of a leaf dies. You’ll notice it as brown, black, or gray areas that start small but can spread. These dead spots feel dry, even crispy, and are often bordered by a yellow or discolored halo. In my experience, once necrosis sets in, those sections of the leaf won’t bounce back. But you can still save the rest of the plant if you catch it early.
Water plays a massive role in maintaining the health of your Anthurium. Too much water can drown the roots, depriving them of oxygen, leading to rot, and eventually showing up as necrosis on the leaves. Too little water, and the plant becomes dehydrated, causing the same result—dead patches on the leaves. It’s a delicate balance that took me some trial and error to master.
I used to think the more nutrients, the better. But over-fertilizing can do more harm than good. Too much fertilizer burns the roots, causing those telltale brown edges and spots. If your Anthurium is looking worse after feeding, you might want to dial back on the nutrients and flush the soil.
Anthuriums love humidity—think tropical rainforest conditions. If the air around your plant is too dry, the leaves can dry out, leading to necrosis. I learned this the hard way when winter came, and indoor heating zapped the moisture out of the air. Keeping a humidifier nearby or misting regularly can help, especially during the colder months.
Direct sunlight can be too intense for Anthurium leaves, causing them to scorch and develop necrotic spots. I once made the mistake of placing mine in the brightest spot in the house, thinking it would love the sun, only to find sunburnt patches on the leaves within days. Anthuriums prefer bright, indirect light to stay healthy.
One thing I’ve learned over time is to check the soil before watering. Anthuriums don’t like to sit in soggy soil. Let the top inch or so dry out before watering again. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s better to err on the side of slightly dry soil than a waterlogged one.
When it comes to feeding your Anthurium, less is often more. I stick to a diluted, balanced fertilizer every few months. Flushing the soil with water between feedings also helps to remove any excess salts that can accumulate and burn the roots.
Keeping the air humid is a game-changer, especially if your home tends to be dry. I’ve found that using a pebble tray or placing the plant near a humidifier can work wonders. A regular misting routine can also mimic the plant’s natural tropical habitat.
If your Anthurium is getting too much direct sun, consider moving it to a spot with bright, filtered light. I’ve found that mine thrives a few feet away from a south-facing window, where the light is bright but not scorching.
Once necrosis has set in, those areas won’t recover. It’s best to prune away the dead tissue, especially if it’s spreading. I use sharp, sterilized scissors to cut off the affected areas, making sure to leave healthy green tissue intact. Pruning not only keeps the plant looking tidy, but it also stops the damage from spreading further.
Leaf necrosis can feel like a setback, but with the right care, your Anthurium can bounce back. I’ve had my share of necrotic leaves, but adjusting watering habits, improving humidity, and watching the light made a world of difference. With a little attention, your Anthurium will thank you with lush, vibrant leaves once again.